Trip Log: The Low Countries - Part 5b: Amsterdam Days 3-5
In which I wrap up talking about our time in Amsterdam
Saturday, 9 August
After a lazy morning, Lizzy decided to stay back at the rental while the rest of us went out to explore the Saturday market in the Jordaan. We purchased (well, I did) a bunch of water color cards and a print plus some cheese. We stopped in Nix, a specialty store that sold only non-alcoholic drinks which was like heaven to me. I picked up the first bottle of N/A Grüner Veltliner I’d ever had - and even got to try before buying, as they had a cold, open bottle.
We grabbed Lizzy and headed to lunch at one of the few places everyone who had visited in the last few years recommended, the very meat-focused Cannibale Royale. It was great, as expected. We split a platter with a little bit of every protein they have on offer along with a steak with parmesan for Lizzy, cauliflower “wings,” and corn on the cob street-corn style. (Matt said they were the best beef short ribs he’s ever had which he insisted I record immediately.)
We visited the Royal Palace which was insanely busy but pretty neat, seeing as I believe folks still live in it.
After lunch, we went to the Church in the Attic, a hidden Catholic church that was built from several town houses. The museum included a visit to the actual church along with lots of great information about the family that built it, the reason for it having to be hidden (short version: religious persecution), how it was built, and a good introduction to the key parts of Catholic faith and services. Very unique place that is worth navigating around the Red Light District to see.
Sunday, 10 August
We started the day with a quick grocery store pastry breakfast before our timed tour of the Van Gogh museum. I walked around with my mom which meant a quicker-than-usual visit. The museum has a dozen or so of the artists’s work on display along with those from his contemporaries and a special exhibit from a contemporary artist who was inspired by Van Gogh.
After lunch, we did two very different things - visited the Anne Frank House then a boat tour. Anne Franke House was not quite what I expected. It’s sort of a museum, sort of a preserved version of where they were, sort of memorial. It was neat to see where they actually lived but hard to really picture as all of the furniture was removed (as it was when Otto Frank went back to visit for the first time) and it was rather crowded.
We went on a boat tour from the one company where those on board seemed to be having the most fun. Our tour was led by a guy with Dutch and American parents who was taking a break between undergrad in Amsterdam and grad school in Chicago. On the 90 minute tour, we enjoyed finger food and various drinks with his great narration.
Originally, we were all going to go out to dinner for Indonesian food but decided both my mom and Lizzy would probably have difficulty with the flavors, so we changed our reservation for just Matt and I. We chose the rice table, a sort of tapas version of the entire menu. Something like 12 different dishes - yes, two were rice - of various yummy Indonesian. While not the best Indonesian ever, it was nice to be able to try it all.
Monday, 11 August - Zandvoordt
Did you know that there is a little beach less than an hour from Amsterdam? Well, there is and the train goes right there. While Lizzy played in the sand and walked a food or so into the water, the rest of the wandered around or sat in the sun. Lunch was at a well-reviewed seafood restaurant which, thankfully, featured more than just fried treats. After lunch, Matt and Lizzy enjoyed the beach for another hour or two while my mom and I wandered town before heading back. Turns out, beach towns aren’t super different, even when you’re on the very chilly North Sea.
Tuesday, 12 August - Heading Home
Our return trip was the same as our trip there but in reverse. Car share to the Amsterdam airport, killing time until we could get into the lounge, chilling in the lounge, flight to Dublin, insanely long passport line that somehow only took 45 minutes, flight back to Dulles. And, phew, we were home!
Where We Stayed
Apartments De Hellen - we rented one of the two-bedrooms which are on the American 3rd and 4th floor
Where We Went
Jordaan market - Lindenmarkt
Cannibale Royale - multiple locations in Amsterdam and Rotterdam
Church in the attic - Museum Our Lord in the Attic
Boat tour company - Captain Jack’s (we did this one)
Rice table Indonesian restaurant - Restaurant Blauw